Monday, October 19, 2009

Avalung - an awesome survival story

Nature, in its unbridled glory, can be a bit dangerous. And travelling across snow always has an element of risk that you might be carried away and burried by the stuff you're walking on.
I'm not going to pretend to be an expert on the slopes. But this is the most awesome video I've seen for ages of survival under extreme conditions thanks to a piece of gear that weighs less than lunch.
Check this out:

Coming back on line - watch this space

Hi

This is just a brief note to say that I'm coming back on line in a couple of weeks. A new job, wedding and two babbies have kept me away from this for most of the past few years, but hopefully I'll be checking out some gear, new and old again.

So please watch this space (and feel free to fire over any thoughts or suggestions)

Tuesday, October 18, 2005

Smartwool or Icebreaker Merino?


Close your eyes and think of a dumb animal.
OK, I'll give two to one odds you just thought of a sheep! After all, how much intellectual prowess does it take to hang around in a field all day eating grass. The poor little critters can't even think for themselves and follow each other around like, um, er, sheep.
Sorry to say this but sheep have been given a bum rap. They are way more intelligent than they get credit for.
Research has shown sheep are very good at recognizing faces and can even figure if a face shown to them is happy or sad (I don't even want to know how they figured that one out). But nowhere is their intelligence greater than in their wool.
Think about it. We've been working on synthetic fabrics for about 100 years or so. Most of our favorites like Malden Mills' Polartec has been around for less than half that time. Sheep on the other hand, have been quietly standing around cold hills working on their face recognition skills and evolving warmer coats for like millions of years. So who's got the upper hand?
Wool is making a major resurgence on the climbing gear scene, helped in large part by the efforts of two companies. Smartwool and Icebreaker.
Both have taken merino wool (pictured in the center on top, with traditional wool to the left and synthetic fibre to the right - thanks to Icebreaker) and come up with a way of making it less itchsome and packaging it in cool baselayers, tops and sweaters. I tried my first a year ago and won't go back.

My Icebreaker top wicks pretty well and even when it does wet through in heavy going, does a great job of keeping me warm. Better still it doesn't stink after a couple of days on the hill the way my PowerDry, Helly Hansen and no-name polypro kit does. It's comfy, warm and looks great. What more could I want from a top.
I'm not about to do a huge review here but the debate in climbing circles seems to have moved away from whether merino is better than synthetic to which of the two brands are the best. I've only experienced Icebreaker so far and can vouch for it's quality. The guys over at UK Climbing are going hell-for-leather in arguing which of the two is best.
Most people have only experienced one or the other and give the one they have glowing reviews, so the odds are you could get away with buying either and being really happy with your purchase.
One opinion I respect is that of Dave Hunter who runs the Rock & Run gear shop. He figures that Smartwool is the best, saying:

We could stock Icbreaker. We don't because Smartwool is superior product.

If Icebreaker have sorted out their seams (ie if they are now flatlock) and their cuffs then they'd be nearly as good. And you'd be better with Icebreaker or Rab merino than a polyester. But Smartwool is better.




For a full review of Smartwool tops check out Dave Hunter's comments. In brief he really likes:
  • their ability to deal with perspiration
  • the fact that they don't feel clammy when wet
  • they don't smell.

The downside is

  • their cost
  • they aren't suited to people allergic to wool
  • they cause static.

Click here for his full smartwool review.

Sunday, October 16, 2005

BackpackGearTest Reviews the Snugpak Softie Chrysalis Micro Sleeping Bag

Snugpak has been doing a pretty good job of building a name for itself as a maker of quality synthetic sleeping bags. BackpackGearTest.org has given its Chrysalis Micro sleeping bag a mixed report after initial reviews.

Ralph Ditton praised its baffle system, soft feel and good heat retention. He had problems with jamming zips and couldn't compress the bag down to its advertized size, a complaint shared by another reviewer at the site.
I look forward to seeing their reports after further testing.

User reviews at Outdoorsmagic of snugpak bags are generally positive with the Softie 3 bag getting an average rating of 3.6 out of 5 stars in five reviews.

Mallory's Gear Was Lighter Than Modern Kit

Talk to people about the legion of climbers racing up the world's 8000 meter peaks and you'll likely get a comment that it's easier now because of modern clothing and equipment. In fact most climbers these days think it's safer to climb on Everest now than it was in the age of Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, who reached its summit in 1953, or even George Mallory, who died on the mountain in 1924.
The thing is - it's not true.

New research has shown that Mallory was equipped with lighter, freer moving clothing and footwear than current day climbers.
The Universities of Lancaster, Southampton, Leeds and Derby in Britain have made replica's of Mallory's clothing and found it was 20% lighter than that worn by Al Hinkes, the first British climber to reach the top of the world's 14 highest mountains.
Mallory's clothing tipped the scales at 4.16kg when he attempted Everest, compared with the 4.825 kg weight of Hinkes' layers.
Hinkes wears a Gore-Tex XCR jacket that he designed and is made specially by Berghaus.

Saturday, October 15, 2005

The $183 Climbing Rack


Backpacker Magazine has set itself a task of assembling the cheapest safe climbing rack it could.
They came up with rock shoes, a harness, belay device, helmet and locking carabiner for $183 that were then tested climbing around the places including Joshua Tree.
This is their selection:

  • Shoes: Rock Pillars Snake - $80
  • Harness: Singing Rock Zenith - $35
  • Helmet: Kong Magic - $50
  • Belay device: Climb Axe Max Air Belay- $11
  • Locking carabiner: Black Diamond Enduro Screwgate - $7.50

To upgrade to toproping costs more, adding $161 for the price of a rope, slings and carabiners. The cheapest rope they recommended is the delrid 10.5 mm Standard Skyline at $130.

Leading gets a lot more expensive - with a decent rack of stoppers, hexes and cams adding more than $380 to your bill.

Friday, October 14, 2005

AKU Superlightweight Mountain Boot - First Look at Outdoorsmagic


OUTDOORSmagic has just run a first-look review of a new superlightweight mountaineering boot, the Spider GTX by AKU.
The new boot take a C1 crampon (a flexible crampon good for crossing glaciers and the like but not serious iceclimbing) and is good down to -25C.
The review doesn't give a weight for the boot but does say they've shaved ounces using nylon and kevlar in the upper.
They promise a closer look at the boot soon.
If it's anything like the company's existing Edge GTX (pictured here) then it should be really light. The Edge comes in at just 655 grams a shoe.